PERMANENT MAKEUP EQUIPMENT AND MACHINES MOST COMMONLY USED IN THE INDUSTRY

The following is a description of permanent  makeup equipment and machines that are most commonly used by technicians in the industry.  When interviewing your  trainer, make sure you ask which type of modality he/she teaches to beginning students.

The Hand Tool - Softap

The hand method utilizing a  hand tool is a technique where pigment is "tapped" into the skin using a small hand instrument that looks similar to an exacto knife handle with needles at the tip. Some people refer to this as the "Softap" technique, however Softap is a trade name. Another company that produces hand tools is Dermagraphics.  

The correct term for this type of application is the "hand method".  Cavemen have been discovered with tattoos that were applied using a tapping method.  Tattooing of makeup was also common in Egypt before Christ.  Here is a photo of one of the instruments used, and one of our students applying permanent makeup using this modality.

I  love this type of application  because it is easy to learn,  results in a beautiful and natural  look, and is economical as a start up choice for beginners. Each tool  comes pre-sterilized and is disposed of after every client, eliminating the need for an autoclave.   I use Softap brand  hand tools,   This company  has given us  a wonderful  assortment of instruments  to choose from, much like an artist has different brushes to achieve different results on a canvass.  Prices  range   from $5.00 to $20.00 each. You will find that this type of permanent makeup equipment is  the lowest "cost per procedure"  of all modalities (digital  rotary vs. coil vs. hand).   It is also a very quiet method of application.  Clients are at ease during the procedure.  I have also found that  clients usually do not need topical anesthetic when beginning some procedures such as eyebrows, as the technique is gentle and usually is tolerable.  This  eliminates the need for pre-numbing time, usually 25 to 30 minutes on brows.. Shorter procedure time  results in more  profit per procedure.

The one  drawback of this modality  is speed of application  for beginners. It takes experience to build up your speed, so after your initial permanent makeup class, it will take some time to build your speed with clients.  Additionally, beginners usually have more touchups, however this is usually the case with all modalities. Touchups may   be required  with any type of modality.

Traditional Tattoo Machines AKA Coil Machine

The traditional tattoo machine also known as the coil machine, has long been the choice of many professionals. It is known as the "workhorse" of the industry.  Here is a photo of me holding this machine. I'm  posting this photo because many technicians  assume that  these permanent makeup machines are  very heavy and cumbersome. To the contrary, lightweight machines are used in permanent cosmetics. 

The tattoo machine was invented by Samuel O'Reilly in the early 1900's and was  designed after an electric calligraphy machine invented by Thomas Edison. 

So what are the pros and cons of the tattoo machine? I  like the fact that it is sturdy,  low maintenance and will last years and years without having to replace parts, has the power to complete procedures effectively and quickly. It also has numerous needle configurations that allow you to achieve different artistic effects. Some rotary and digital machines do not offer this assortment of needle options.  You can work very quickly, as the needles hit the skin an average of 2300 times per minute. The coil machine is also economical to purchase and maintain. Start up equipment will usually run between $500 and $600. Two small parts called "springs" may need to be replaced every few years, and cost about $2.00 per set. Many "pen" machines are economical, however are cheaply made and do not hold up over time, so need to replaced on a yearly basis.

What are the negative aspects  of this modality? It is noisy and some people say it reminds them of the sound of a dentist drill.  Most clients are  more "on edge" with this noise, especially when doing eyeliner procedures. If you are in a doctor's office or day spa, or other situation where the noise is an issue, this may not be the choice for you. However if you eventually have the goal of doing small tattoos or large scale body art, this is the modality for you. As far as weight, we use lightweight machines for permanent makeup. They are manageable,  however are still heavier and more bulky than a digital handpiece. At the end of a long day, you may feel this in your hands.

I  feel that this modality  is more challenging to learn.  It takes time to master it.  The machine  can easily get out of tune, and can be  finicky. If it gets out of adjustment, it won't run correctly, or may completely stop in the middle of a procedure.  New technicians can really be intimidated when this happens.  I personally feel that a student will be more successful if he/she serves an apprenticeship  when wanting to learn  this type of equipment.  Just remember, a tattoo artist apprentices for a year or more with this machine.  So if you have made the decision that you want to learn with this equipment, be prepared  to invest more time and money in your initial  permanent makeup class to master it.  However once you DO master it, you will love the results. 

Digital Rotary Machine

Digital rotary machines are professional looking, quiet, and easy to learn.   This is   "state of the art"  permanent makeup equipment. The needles come in a cartridge that is pre-sterilized, so there is no need for an autoclave. The needle pops in and out  of the hand piece very easily. Digital read outs make it  simple to adjust the power.  Below is a photo of the Harmonix Digital Machine, and the Nouveau Contour Machine.  The needles hit the skin approximately 1800 times per minute, so you can complete procedures quickly. These particular machines are manufactured in Germany and are "top of the line".   I highly recommend this type of equipment for new technicians because they are so easy to learn and give  beautiful results. They are also an excellent choice for a medical office or  day spa. For additional information on the Nouveau Contour, see our link at the bottom of this page.

So what are the negative aspects of  this modality? Cost! Most  run anywhere from $2500.00 to $3500.00. The needle cartridges are also more costly, ranging from from $7.00 to $11.00 per needle cartridge. When doing a full lip procedure you will need two needle cartridges, resulting in more cost per procedure.

    

Other Rotary Machines

Other rotary machines on the market include machines such as the KP 96, and Meicha Sapphire 2000.  Many technicians use these machines with good results. They are quiet, easy to put together and easy to learn. They are also very economical to purchase. These machines cost from $179 to $300.

The down side is that many times these machines will not  do advanced procedures such as scar tissue or areola repigmentation. This type of tissue  can require equipment with more power and strength. We therefore recommend that technicians who are planning to eventually learn paramedical work, invest in a "digital" rotary such as the Harmonix Digital, or a traditional coil machine.   

In Conclusion

Which modality is best? That depends on YOU ! Everyone's situation is different. How much money do you wish to invest? Where will you be working? Which technique seems most appealing to you? 

On the  first day of  your permanent makeup class,  you will be given the opportunity to try each type of  permanent makeup equipment.  You will then decide what feels most comfortable in your hands. For the remainder of the class, you will learn that one method of  application.